The first thing to know about dryer repair is that you can handle specific straightforward issues. Finding a professional, planning a service call, or shelling out hundreds of dollars for dryer repair is unnecessary.
About 90% of dryer malfunctions are fixed by the dryer repair techniques outlined in this article. The average repair takes one hour, so allow extra time for finding replacement parts. In addition to fundamental equipment like a socket set and screwdrivers, a continuity tester or multimeter could be required to identify the issue. Before repairing your dryer, unplug it. Ensuring an appliance has electricity is the first step in any appliance repair. Appliance “breakdowns” are frequently brought on by unplugged cords and tripped breakers.
How to Take a Dryer Apart Dryer Repair
The outside cabinet must typically be disassembled to access the parts within for most dryer repairs. Therefore, a dryer repairer may not even be necessary. Depending on where the lint filter is, there are a few minor differences in how to disassemble a dryer. The top and front of a gas dryer must typically be removed for repairs to gain access to the parts (not the back or sides).
If the lint filter for your dryer is inside the front door, remove the filter as follows:
Start by removing the screws from the control panel’s corners.
Flip the panel up and backward to reveal the screws in the top panel.
After removing the screws, push the top off by pulling it in your direction. You can release the catches by inserting a putty knife into the slot directly above the spring catches and opening the bottom panel.
The front panel can be removed by unscrewing the top two and bottom two screws while the bottom panel is still closed.
Remove the screws next to the filter slot if your filter slides into the dryer’s top. Release the two spring catches underneath the top panel at the front with a putty knife. Tilt the top panel up like a vehicle hood to remove the screws holding the front panel in place.
How to Repair a Non-Starting Dryer Repair
When you turn on your dryer, if it appears completely dead, there’s a reasonable probability the door switch is damaged, or the plunger is bent. Door switches deteriorate with regular use, but slamming them may hasten their demise.
When troubleshooting a dryer, start by looking at the plunger that is placed on the door. Replace it if it’s missing or damaged. If it passes inspection, the top cabinet panel must be removed to access the door switch in the dryer’s plunger. See the instructions for disassembly.
Check for continuity on the switch. Test the thermal fuse installed on the blower housing to see if the switch functions correctly. Open the bottom panel of your gas dryer’s door to get to the thermal fuse if the lint filter is there. Remove the entire front panel if the filter slides into the machine’s top. Take off the back service panel on an electric dryer.
DO NOT replace the thermal fuse if you don’t obtain a continuity reading. A blown thermal fuse is a sign of more significant issues, such as a broken thermostat or a blocked vent. Before changing the fuse, address those.
What to Do if the Noise in Your Dryer
The most common cause of thumping or rumbling sounds from your dryer repair is a set of worn-out drum support rollers. Replace them all. Replace the tensioneto r roller (see below) if the noise persists. We advise changing the rollers and belts together because disassembling the machine takes longer than simply replacing them.
Noises from the dryer
Dryer Does Not Heat
Check the airflow from the vent tube first if your dryer isn’t drying your clothing. It accumulates lint, restricting airflow and making it difficult, if not impossible, to dry garments. There are a few more typical solutions for a dryer that isn’t drying if that isn’t the problem, ranging from checking the breaker box to cleaning the lint filter.
Although a dryer repair may tumble but not heat, other potential issues exist. In that scenario, make sure the thermal fuse is continuous. If your gas dryer’s thermal fuse passes inspection, go to the radiant sensor. It monitors the igniter and activates the gas valve coils when it reaches its maximum temperature. A faulty sensor will stop the entire show. If it doesn’t pass the continuity test, replace it. Disconnect the electrical connector from the igniter and verify it for continuity if the sensor is in working order. If it fails the continuity test once again, replace it.
Replace the gas valve coils if the radiant sensor and the igniter pass the test. Remove the retaining plate, unhook the sensors, and then pull them off the gas valve to replace them.
Check the heating element for continuity if the thermal fuse on your electric dryer repair passes inspection. If you don’t get continuity, swap out the element.
Dryer Is Not Rotating
It could be a damaged belt. Lift the entire drum out of the cabinet after removing the front cabinet panel to change the belt. After that, start your shop vacuum and remove all the lint. The tensioner roller should then be manually spun to check for cracks and to see if it works smoothly. If it fails either test, replace the tensioner.
The new belt should be cinched with the ribs facing the drum when you reinstall the drum. The front access panel makes seeing some tensioners challenging because they are behind the motor. This will have to be done intuitively. As you route the belt around the motor pulley, reach your hands around the blower housing and raise the tensioner.
The door to the dryer won’t stay closed.
The latch on your dryer repair door may be broken, crooked, or missing, or the strike may be worn if it won’t remain closed. The remedy is quick and affordable. Purchase the components at any retailer of appliance parts. Next, gather a roll of masking tape, trim, straight-slot screwdrivers, and pliers.
Take hold of the broken or bent clasp and pull it out. Install the replacement one by firmly pushing it in until the locking tabs are in place. After that, remove the old strike and tape up the door’s finish. Strike the metal locking tab with a tiny screwdriver and bend it inward. With a second screwdriver, pry it upward to remove it (Photo 2). You can resume your laundry business when you snap in the new strike.
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